lundi 25 juin 2007

Whales are BIG!






















So quite a lot has happened since our last entry. First, ….on the morning of 15 June, we were still waiting for our car in BA, when we got a phone call from the agent; we had 15 minutes to get ready to go down to the docks to get our car! …a mere 12 days after the ship had docked! So after I’d wiped the shaving cream off the mobile phone ….
Now I sort of naively thought that we’d sign a couple of papers, then drive off …. Silly me! Once we arrived at the docks, we waited around a bit, signed some papers …. and were told to go and check the container being opened … big ceremony! The chief, top, headman made me open a couple of boxes, then he said OK …. and we all trouped off to sign some more papers …. What fun! Great I thought, now we can go …. wrong again. They said we’d have to drive to a warehouse to unload the car … and I sort of thought it would be next to the port….. Oh no, it was 35km away! So our convoy set off; the truck with the container, a car full of customs people, and a taxi with the agent and us. When we got to the warehouse …. they didn’t have a ramp to offload the car! So we set off again to another warehouse. By this time the customs guys had got fed up and gone home! We eventually got the car out and drove away after 6 hours! Free at last!
We drove north to Tigre, a BA suburb on the banks of the River Plate. Ann had found a reference to a camp site, so on arrival in Tigre we started to look for it. It was 6pm and going dark and all we had was a street name …..to find in an area the size of Manchester ….with no street map! The people we stopped to ask for directions were absolutely marvellous; they spent ages giving us exhaustive and detailed descriptions of how to find it ….unfortunately we didn’t understand a single word!. So we finished up in front of a police station. I went in and asked again for directions. The policeman launched into another long explanation, but quickly realized I wasn’t understanding anything (sort of glazed look in my eyes I suppose). So with no hesitation he jumped into a squad car, and with all lights flashing he escorted us all the way to the campsite!! Even going the wrong way down one-way streets!
Once again I have to say that the Argentine people are the kindest and politest people I’ve met in a long time.
Our trials and tribulations were almost over ……almost …. The campsite was closed!
So we just slept in the car outside the gates until it opened in the morning.
Then we spent three very pleasant days amongst the « river people » of the River Plate delta. They travel mainly by river to get anywhere; school, market, to the pub …
After we’d sorted ourselves out, we set off for the great south! We left for Patagonia … over 1300km of rather boring roads, with just cows, grass, cows, and more cows! Imagine a single field that is 1000 hectares (2000 acres) in size! And roads that are dead straight ….on one stretch of 170km there was just one bend!
For some strange reason the police in Patagonia are neurotic about visitors bringing in fruit and meat from other parts of Argentina. They let us keep our bananas, but confiscated 2 apples?!?! Work that one out! But once again everything happened in a warm and friendly atmosphere.
After 2 days, and several closed campsites, we arrived in Puerto Madryn in Northern Patagona; the main town in a large marine life ecology park next to the Valdes peninsula ….. So I finally get to the title of this entry ….we saw our first whales; Southern Right whales (12 to 16 metres long). They come to the peninsula to mate between June and December … and there are lots of them. There isn’t really any need to take a boat trip to see them, they come right in to the beach …. A mere 15 metres away from where we were standing! The females turn on their backs, flippers in the air, white bellies exposed, if they aren’t ready to mate. In that position the males can’t do anything. This must be the whale version of « I’ve got a headache and I don’t feel like it » The only snag is that they can’t breathe in that position, so they have to turn over again after so long ……. Gotcha!!!

In the next update we‘ll tell you about our trip round the Valdez peninsula, and I`ll try to improve the blog posting!

mardi 12 juin 2007

Buenos Aires - Steak and Tango

Well... here we are in Buenos Aires. Yes, still waiting for our car .... customs people are the same the world over I guess; they don't hurry too much ... but if all goes well, we should be leaving BA in a couple of days to go south.

Our trip over here was uneventful. We arrived outside our hotel in the San Telmo quarter of BA at 08:30 .... we had yet to learn that Argentina doesn't wake up until 10:00, so everything looked really dead and depressing. We found a 24-hour cafe and had our first Argentine hamburger; this was a foretaste of what was to come! The hamburger cost 0.70 euros, and was a thousand times better than anything from McDo! The area of BA where we're staying is trendy and arty. Full of little cafes, bars, restaurants and antique shops. If there are two words to describe BA, they must be "steak" and "Tango". If you like meat, its a paradise; the beef MUST be the best in the world (the cows only feed on grass ... thousands of square miles of pampas) .... and on warm evenings (yes, the temperature is still around 20 degrees), the local people come out to dance the Tango in little plazzas. All ages join in .... its an amazing sight. The Tango is a total passion for them, amd everybody has so much fun!

Traffic is quite scary (try taking a taxi!). Cars are very old and falling apart. There are hundreds of buses everywhere .... driving round in groups at hair-raising speeds ... all following one-another to the same destination ... with virtually nobody inside! The noise they make is incredible! The other "feature" of driving in BA that makes it definitely suicidal for foreigners is the one-way system. Almost all streets are one-way only .... but nobody thought to put up any signs saying which way!! No 'One-Way" arrows, no "No Entry" signs! So if you don't know ....... your life expectancy as a foreign driver in BA is approximately 30 minutes!!!!

The people in our hotel ( a hostel really) are a real mixed bunch .... American students, an Argentine artist, a lap-dancer, and a group ( or should I say a "swarm") of Chilean bee-keepers!
How do we always manage to pick these places !!?

Just a word about the Argentine people .... they're really great! They're kind, polite, friendly, and always ready to practice their English. We've been here now for just over a week, and not a single wrong word or unfriendly look. If only all the people round the world could be the same ....

I think that's all for now. The next update will be from a cybercafe somewhere in Patagonia ( if the nice customs people will just give us our car!!)

Ciao

samedi 12 mai 2007

J-19 and counting .....

Today May 12 – the car has left on the container ship to Buenos Aires …. at least I hope it has …. I mean I hope its left … and to Buenos Aires!

Having already spent some time in Africa, we’re used to the hassle of dealing with foreign administrations (the secret of success is infinite patience and a big smile). It seems the customs people in Buenos Aires are no exception to the rule. First they didn’t like us packing all our “personal effects” in the car; they asked us to bring them as hand luggage! …. However, when I explained that “personal effects” means all the stuff we need for surviving 14 months abroad in a 4x4 ….. and that it weighs approximately 600Kg! (imagine trying to get that lot through a Ryanair check-in!!) … and that it was too late anyway as it was already packed in the car … they agreed it would be OK …… on condition that I supplied them with a list showing every single item.
Fortunately I had already made the list for myself, because it’s the only way I’ll ever be able to know where to find anything (my memory never was very good)! However, when I sent it to them, they insisted that I translate it into Spanish. Not an unreasonable request I suppose …. except that my Spanish is limited to a few phrases learned from Fawlty Towers! So I used an online translator on the internet. You really should try it sometime … the results can be quite hilarious. For example it translated:
- “cooking utensils” as “utensils that are being cooked”
- “ sleeping bag liner” as “transatlantic sleeping bag” (yes, you need to think about that one a bit) …. “liner” was interpreted as “transatlantic cruise liner” … (“So tell me, how did you travel to Buenos Aires? By plane?” ….. “No, by sleeping bag!”)
- and “cool trousers” (meaning cool-weather trousers) was translated as “cool (really with it man!) trousers” …. and believe me … that is the LAST adjective you could use to describe MY trousers …. I still have a pair of purple bell-bottomed jeans!

I think the customs guys in BA are going to have a good laugh!

On a different note … we’re saying “Au revoir” to lots of people now … including our two daughters, their husbands, and a grandson … and hundreds of friends. Not easy …. but we’ll be keeping in touch if I can just figure out how to use the satellite phone!

samedi 28 avril 2007

Counting the days .....


We're counting the days now ..... we leave for Buenos Aires on May 31 via Madrid, arriving on June 2. Our car has gone already ... it is currently sitting in a container in the Port of Felixstowe waiting to be loaded on a ship leaving on May 10. At least I hope they've managed to get it in the container ... it was rather high! ... and one of the guys did say "Oh don't worry, I've got a big crowbar!!"


Have you ever seen the port of Felixstowe?!!! Literally thousands of containers stacked up 7 high!!! ...... ("Very sorry, I've left my house keys in the car ... can I get them out please?")


So in theory we arrive in Buenos Aires one day before our car ..... in theory ..... Insha'Allah


Then when we've spent another week trying to get our car through customs .... we set off vaguely south. The idea is to drive south until Ann thinks its too cold to look at any more penguins, dolphins and whales, then cut across to Chile and do some skiing, then start driving north along the Andes.
Next update soon.